A month of intensive German classes paired with a not-so-summery Berlin summer really sweetened the deal that was a week on Mallorca. This well known island, and Ibiza’s trusty brother, is located in the Mediterranean Sea and is the largest of the Balearic islands. It’s part of Spain, but during high season this is hardly apparent as 90% of the inhabitants are German and British tourists. In searching for the right spot to stay on the island, Max and I wanted to have easy beach and hiking access, and to avoid the crazy party scene but still be near a restaurant and bar hub. After deliberation between southeast and northeast parts of the island, we settled on Port de Pollença and couldn’t be happier with our decision.
We arrived at the airport in Palma on the southern coast, picked up our rental car, and headed north. Max drove while I provided directions and insightful tips (or unnecessary commentary, depending on who you ask). After a brief stint in the wrong direction, we arrived at our lovely Airbnb which was located just two blocks from the beach in Port de Pollença. The majority of our week was spent on the beach, as planned, but we also did our best to explore the surrounding area. Here are the highlights of our trip:
Cap de Formentor
At the northernmost tip of the island, and at the end of a 14km hairpin road, lies the most breathtaking cliffside view point, Cap de Formentor. The drive up is beautiful, but it’s also a real test to one’s sanity, especially if backseat driver Numero Uno (names needn’t be mentioned) is present. The view is definitely worth it, but it’s best to go early in the morning because it’s a popular spot. Max and I got to the top around noon and had to queue for 20-30 minutes to park our car.
On the way down from the Cap, we stopped in at Cala Figuera, a beautiful cove hidden from the main road. The beach is small and rocky, the water is turquoise, and as a little trekking is required to get there, the cove is pretty unoccupied.
Exploring Pollença town
Pollença town is located just west of its port, and is a must-see if you’re interested in Mallorquin culture. The town is a maze of cobblestone lanes and squares, and in the town center there is a 365-step stairway to a chapel that offers a gorgeous view in every direction. The streets are lined with cafes and little shops perfect for souvenirs. My favorite shop was Teixits Vicens, which carries artisanal Mallorquin textiles and goods. We went on a Sunday and were lucky enough to catch the weekly market which was overflowing with stalls of fresh veggies, homemade breads, cured meats, cheeses, handmade goods, and so many olives. Since forever I’ve have a very serious addiction to olives, so naturally we walked away with a 15€ bucket of them, and that, my friends, is self-restraint. On our way out of town, we picked fresh pomegranates from a tree next to our car and then I died of goodness.
Hike to Cala Boquer
Hiking was on our to-do list, and Max found a scenic trail that started down the road from our apartment and ended at Cala Boquer, another hidden cove. The route is about 45 minutes in each direction, and it runs through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was a gorgeous hike, albeit very hot and unshaded, and running into the crystal clear water of Cala Boquer at the end was one of the best feelings in the world. Also, there are goats everywhere.
We found the restaurant scene to be pretty hit or miss, as most of the beachfront spots cater to the Brits. However, amidst the steakhouses, pizzerias, and fish and chips joints, there are some wonderful tapas restaurants. On our first night we ate at a traditional Mallorquin place, and on our third and last night we had exceptional dinners at Bellaverde, a vegan and vegetarian restaurant around the corner from us. Besides Bellaverde, our best meals were simple Mediterranean nibbles enjoyed on our balcony.
Beach bum afternoons
While not the most adventurous part of our trip, relaxing on our nearby beach was certainly my favorite. After an excursion, lunch, and/or a disgracefully sweaty run (literal death runs), Max and I headed to the beach every afternoon to laze, swim, drink, and read. It was beautiful, sunny, day-drinking, R&R perfection.
After our blissful week on Mallorca, Berlin welcomed us home with cold, rainy weather. Fortunately, I only had to endure the rain for a day, and now I’m enjoying warm and sunny New York City! It’s my first time back in the states since moving to Berlin, and I’m one happy girl. Max is getting in shortly, so it’s time for a run in Prospect Park. More NYC and UV news to come!